Hang loose!

A nice bright sunny morning I was getting ready to surf for my first time on the island of Bali. I was excited but nervous at the same time.

I yelled with joy from my heart, ”It is my first time surfing!” I couldn’t wait to see my instructor. Soon enough I met him. He was native to the island of Bali. He had hair that went down to his shoulders. He seemed to be very calm. I can work with this, I thought to myself. I forgot his name so let’s call him Seeklow.

Just a minute later, mom, Trevor, Seeklow and I started to the sand. First, Seeklow talked about the shoreline, but I had no idea what the shoreline was… In the background there were ten feet tall waves! I felt uncomfortable and nervous now about surfing. Seeklow made us stand up how you would on the wave and how you would paddle.

A short while later we got in the water and started to paddle out from shore. Still, I felt like butterflies were flying in my stomach and I was very nervous about being in the sea and scared about how I would be able to stand on the surfboard even though I practiced on shore. Things ran through my head about surfing.

A while later Seeklow stops and says, ”This is where you will get the wave.” I somehow turned my board around in the water and got ready. Seeklow told me: “This is your first wave to taste the surf!“ The wave got closer and closer to me. “Lulu, paddle!” yelled Seeklow. I paddled hard and then a push came and I was off on my first wave! I was there, having fun, freaking out, I was going at least 200 miles per hour! The butterflies went away. I was belly surfing. I was sure I would stand up on the next one, for sure.

The waves seemed to slow down and became shorter for a moment. I turned around and paddled back. I knew the faster I was there the faster I would get on a wave. Soon I was back with Seeklow. “This time you will stand up.” For sure I was going to stand up on this wave. I was so ready for the next wave to come, and here it was! The wave of my life!!!!!!!!

“Never look down, always, always forward!” I heard Seeklow behind me. Up and with the wave I was. Suddenly I was standing on the surf board. I was really, really, really, really, really, seriously, OMG, OMG, surfing. Hang loose! I felt overjoyed just like I felt in the beginning of the surfing trip. I felt tears of accomplishment start to form. I felt so proud and beautiful and overjoyed about myself. I couldn’t feel better about myself standing up my first time on my surf board.

For about four hours I was in the water surfing the waves. After I got out of the water I felt like something bit me, but it wasn’t a bite it was a rash everywhere! I hated it, but I rushed back to the shoreline the very next morning with Seeklow.